Tuesday 28 April 2015

Change happens quickly sometimes.

After another week of cruising the Abacos we decided to catch a brief weather window to head back to the States. The weather pattern looked unfavorable in the coming weeks so we took advantage of a 48 hour break in the squally and unsettled conditions. Joined by SV Sheila, we made our way to Cooper's Town and then had a great sail to Little Sale Cay, smack in the middle of the Little Bahama Bank. We spent the night there and then, after waiting for some strong squalls to come through, we left for the States. It was a relatively quiet 23 hour crossing. Unfortunately, we ran the engine the whole way as the wind never picked up quite enough to move us fast enough on its own. 
During the last couple days leading up to our departure we had been in touch with a man named Ray who was in Miami and seemingly very interested in Momo. We agreed to meet him in Ft. Pierce, FL so he could see the boat. SV Sheila graciously agreed to accompany us so we would both still have each other's company on the crossing. When Ray saw Momo it took him all of 15 minutes to agree to buy her!  The one stipulation was that he wanted us to deliver her to Miami. 
So, we said a teary "see you soon" to our wonderful friends Tom, Tracy and Eva. They turned north towards Canada and we turned south towards Miami. 
Four days later, Momo arrived in Coconut Grove. These were long days, reminiscent of our earlier passage through these waters in December - too many hours of motoring and too many bridges. The worst part of this trip was on Sunday when we went right through the middle of "Boca Bash". A simple google search will shed some light on the mayhem and debautchery we had to navigate. The wind was in our face until yesterday when we were finally able to sail from Ft Lauderdale to Miami. It was a lovely sail and as it turned out, a fitting last voyage on our beloved boat. As of a few hours ago, we are no longer the owners of Momo. 
It has not really set in yet - especially because we are still moving our stuff into a rental van and will be sleeping aboard one last time tonight. I think tomorrow is going to be hard. We owe a lot to this boat. She brought our family on an incredible adventure, always keeping us comfortable and safe. We are going to miss her sounds and her gentle way of rocking us to sleep. Most of all we are going to miss the simple life she has allowed us to live.  She has been our home and for the girls it is going to be particularly hard. They feel such attachment to Momo. We take with us many wonderful memories. 
When we put her up for sale we never anticipated it playing out like this. We figured we would sail back to Duxbury and eventually sell Momo up there. However, selling a boat is not usually very easy so we figured we ought to see this through and we are glad we did. Best of all, we still have some time to adventure before the real world grabs us again...
Ray has some big plans for Momo and we think the two will be very compatible. We look forward to keeping in touch with Ray to hear about future Adventures with Momo. 

Tuesday 14 April 2015

Goodbye Exumas, Hello Abacos


It has been a month since our last post...GULP. So here are some highlights - 

After our second trip to Conception we returned to the Exumas to meet a new batch of visitors. First we picked up Jenny and Brian from George Town and had a wonderful week of Exuma Out Island adventuring. We enjoyed awesome snorkeling, beaches and sunsets as we made our way back to Staniel Cay, hitting some of our favorite spots on the way. We had so much fun with them!
In Staniel we picked up Cassie the day after Jenny and Brian flew out. We continued north with Cassie, hitting more of our favorites in the northern Exumas en route to Nassau. Again we had super weather, great underwater adventures and tons of fun. Cassie helped to spear some giant lobsters the last day of the season. 
In Nassau we said goodbye to Cassie and then spent a couple days living it up at the Atlantis water park. We left Nassau on a close haul port tack for a 55 mile trip to Hatchet Bay, Eleuthera. We had a nice week traveling around the northern parts of Eleuthera, spending our last couple days at Egg Island. This spot turned out to be a favorite. We anchored in a small sand patch surrounded by clear water and healthy reef. Calm conditions allowed us to do lots of snorkeling. 
We left Eleuthera under darkness for the 50 mile trip to Little Harbor, Abaco, closing the chapter on our time in the Exumas. 
We have now been in the Abacos for about 2 weeks. It certainly has a different feel than the Exumas and Conception. Much more development and many more people. 
We have been slowly winding our way north, stopping in places such as Hopetown, Elbow Cay, Man o' War Cay, Great Cuana Cay, and now Treasure Cay. We will continue this slow push north for about 2 more weeks. We anticipate making the hop to the East Coast sometime after that, depending on weather. Our route will also be very weather dependent, but for now we are aiming somewhere north of Florida and south of Cape Hatteras...we shall see. 

In other news, Momo is for sale! More details here: http://momoforsale.blogspot.com/


It was a little out of character for us but we decided to live it up for two days at the Atlantis, however, on a shoe-string budget.  We figured out that if we took a slip in a grungy marina in Nassau they would give us free passes to Atlantis water park and aquarium.  Heck yeah!

We have had so many wonderful snorkeling adventures throughout the Bahamas but I always wish Scout could experience what we are seeing.  It is probably a funny sight to see - we usually end up snorkeling with the three of us in the water reporting things we see to Scout who is in the dinghy being towed along side of us. We have also tried glass bottom buckets, glass bottom dinghies and glass containers but they just aren't the same.  Scout finally got her golden opportunity! 

Glass calm day and an artsy photo-op.

Not many people get to see and can claim to have caught a real sea-horse - pretty cool!

In the famous words of our favorite movie character, ''let's go fly a kite'.

One thing I am pretty proud of is the amount of reading this lifestyle has allowed us to do with our kids. Lucy has learned to read on this trip and is pretty self-motivated.  Also, note the apple shirt and striped bathing suit under the pink panties. 

Pondering things that make whales vomit.  



Friday 13 March 2015

Long Island, Conception Redux

After our wonderful time in Conception we sailed back to Thompson Bay, Long Island. Once again we rented a car for a day to visit Dean's Blue Hole and a few other spots again. We explored the island with the crews from Sheila and Jaru - new friends we met in Conception. After a couple days in Thompson Bay, we sailed back to the north end of Long Island and spent a night at Hog Cay before jumping back across to Conception again. We continued our string of good luck catching fish, this time pulling in a 60" mahi that weighed 40 lbs! Having already eaten mahi for the previous 7 nights we gladly shared this fish with other boats at Conception.
Our second trip to Conception proved to be just as good as our first, cementing this place as our favorite thus far. We spent lots of time swimming in the crystal clear water, exploring the surrounding reefs, and even surfing a bit when a nice swell wrapped around into the bay one afternoon. On our last full day there we were invited by some scientists to help catch sea turtles for measurement and tagging. There is a mangrove lagoon on the island that attracts tons of turtles. The catching process consisted of us chasing a turtle around the lagoon in the dinghy for about 5 minutes until it became exhausted, and then leaping out of the dinghy and literally grabbing it. It was a lot of fun - all in the name of science! Afterward we assisted with the tagging and measurements.
Our departure from Conception a few days ago marked the turn-around point in our trip. Our bow is now pointed to the north as we begin to slowly make our way home. We will wind our way back through the Exumas, with visits from Jenny, Brian and Cassie, and then eventually make our way up to the Abacos for a month of exploration up there.








That little dark spot in the middle is a sea turtle as we are in hot pursuit.




Tuesday 3 March 2015

Conception Island

We got the gang back together - Sheila and Momo sailed out of Georgetown together to Conception Island, a small remote uninhabited island 15 miles north/east of Long Island.  It was remote, stunningly beautiful and hard to leave.  It offered pristine clear waters that begged you to drop anchor and jump in immediately, and long crescent beaches with abutting cliffs to hike along. It was with very little protection from any unsettled weather so we had to high-tail it out of there for yet another blow but we loved it so much we are already planning our return in a few days.

Unfortunately, the weather this season has been such that one cold front follows another and we keep getting blown out of these beautiful places in search of protected harbors.  Therefore, we find ourselves faced with having to give up on the Raggeds and Jamentos.  However, we are happily settling on a plan to island hop around Conception, Cat and maybe Rum Cays.  We shall see...

51 Inch Mahi-Mahi!!!
Conception - The gang is perched on the cliff in the middle!

Sail to Thompson Bay.  Clearly, I just discovered this pano feature on the phone and love it!

Scout's 3rd Bday


Happy Third Birthday Scout!!!
Thompson Bay, Long Island, Bahamas
March 2nd, 2015

Scout, sporting a bruise on her cheek and her new can of play-doh. 

Birthday party on the beach with fellow cruiser families - not too shabby for impromptu!

Love seeing all these kids out here!

Monday 16 February 2015

Visitors

We are having an amazing time with Marmie and Di-dad (Ted's parents)!!!  We sailed again to Lee Stocking Island the day after they arrived and spent a few days exploring. Then, yesterday we tucked into Rat Cay with the intention of exploring the blow hole and tidal pools but when the surge was more than expected and the forcasted winds increased for the evening we decided to push on - back to Georgetown. We had a beautiful sail but unfortunately no fish. Tomorrow we will join some other cruisers for some beach trash pick-up and more island exploration. We are so glad they made the last minute decision to join us. 

Monday 9 February 2015

Long Island back to Georgetown.

We had a great sail downwind in 20knots of wind and beautiful skies.  We traveled with 14 other boats, all escaping the upcoming weather.  We picked a protected and therefore popular spot to drop the hook. Lucy counted the number of boats in our anchorage throughout today.  We started with 21 boats at 7am and ended with 53 this evening - I suspect more will come tomorrow morning. 
Below, Scout (with Lucy) is belting out the lyrics to Rod Stewart and laughing, "where the ocean meets the sky I'll be sailing...whoohoo"

Saturday 7 February 2015

Southern Exumas and Long Island

It is hard to believe it has been 5 weeks since our last blog post! I am not even sure where to begin, there have been far too many highlights to capture...we are currently in Long Island (Thompson Bay) where we have been for most of the past week. The previous month or so has been spent in the southern Exumas. We reunited with sv Sheila and other friends and have spent time mostly in the Lee Stocking Cay area, or in Georgetown. Georgetown is great from a provisions standpoint (excellent groceries, supplies, etc), has very nice beaches and an incredible surfing wave, but is crowded with cruisers (usually 200+ boats!). While this creates a nice community, it also feels overwhelming after a few days. We have managed to find some great places to travel to from Georgetown where we can find the peace and tranquility (and awesome fishing) we have come to enjoy in so many other parts of the Exumas. On two occasions we have spent a week at Lee Stocking where an abandoned marine research facility makes for a slightly eery, but mostly fun backdrop for inland exploration, hiking, countless beautiful and empty beaches and phenomenal underwater life. When there we eat lobster until we no longer desire it, and laugh about how easy it would be to film a zombie movie in the falling-down buildings, dusty hyperbaric chamber, and countless sheds of dirty and rusty old parts. Like our other favorite Exuma stop, Normans Cay, Lee Stocking is in the process of a planned facelift with the end result being a major marina complex. We feel lucky to be able to explore this place before shovels meet dirt, and plan on returning there at least one more time before we leave the area. It pains us to think about what this paradise might become in a few years.
This past week in Long Island has been a lot of fun as well. After spending a night near the northern cape Santa Maria, we have been based in Thompson bay. Two days ago we rented a car and drove almost the entire length of the island which is 81 miles long. We stopped at some neat spots, our favorite being Dean's Blue Hole. This is the deepest blue hole in the world, dropping 663 feet down and the location of the world records for free-diving. We had a lot of fun swimming in and around it.
Tomorrow we head back to Georgetown once again to restock and pick up Marmie and Di-dad who are flying in for a week. The girls could not be more excited and the current plan is to head back up to Lee Stocking on Thursday, weather dependent. We hope it won't be another 5 weeks before we write another post!


Summit of Perry's Peak on Lee Stocking 

This pretty much sums up Scouty. Tutu and her Apple Shirt sticking out of her wetsuit. 
All she wanted for Christmas was strawberry ice cream. We finally fulfilled the wish when we arrived in Georgetown.



Dean's Blue Hole

Saturday 3 January 2015

Catching Up

The past couple of weeks have been wonderful. We hosted Amie’s parents, Marmar and Farfar for 10 days over the holidays, and we had a blast. The girls were so happy to have their grandparents, and Marmar and Farfar were such great guests. We picked them up from Norman’s Cay on the 22nd, and they brought over 50 lbs of food! They also managed to pack a ton of Santa’s presents into their bags and spoiled us rotten. We stayed in Norman’s through Christmas with a bunch of our friends on other boats. In the afternoon of the 25th we all gathered at a beautiful beach for a potluck. It was definitely a different Christmas, but an incredible one as well.
On the 26th we headed down to Hawksbill Cay with s/v Sheila. After setting the hook before lunch, we spent the afternoon exploring the reefs on the south side. Hawksbill is inside the Land and Sea Park, so no fishing. On the 27th we continued on down to Staniel Cay for some provisioning.  We explored Thunderball Grotto with Marmar and Farfar on the 28th, and then sailed about 10 miles south to another settlement, Black Point. Black Point is the second largest settlement in the Exumas, but that is not saying much – its year round inhabitants probably do not count more than 300. We found its reputation as a great place for cruisers to be absolutely true. The Islanders are incredibly friendly, and supplies are reasonably priced. The infamous breads baked by Lorraine’s mother were superb!
On the 29th we sailed a bit further south to Jack’s Bay and spent the 30th even further south at Oven Rock. Both offered us solitude and beautiful beaches to explore. Oven Rock also boasts a cool cave that we hiked to, and we managed to spear one lobster and a bunch of lionfish. On the 31st we sailed north again back to Staniel to prepare for Marmar and Farfar’s departure the next morning. Staniel was crowded with megayachts and we chose to stay on the boat for a quiet night to ring in the New Year. Everyone on board was asleep well before midnight.
The girls both wailed (literally…passersby were concerned) for half an hour after Marmar and Farfar’s plane disappeared into the clouds. We had such fun with them. We returned to Momo and did some organizing before pulling anchor to head south again to Black Point. We knew there was a cruising regatta going on that day at Staniel but neither Amie nor I was too excited to race as we were still wrapped up in the sadness of saying goodbye to Marmar and Farfar. However, our course to Black Point took us right by the committee boat, and at the last moment we veered course to ask when the start was. “The sequence starts in 10 minutes….please join us!” they shouted back.  If this trip has taught us anything, it has shown us that sometimes incredible experiences happen when you least expect them. “Ok, we are in!” we replied. Our dinghy was still towing behind Momo so we frantically stowed in on deck and made preparations below for the race. The race committee was gracious enough to delay the starting sequence a few minutes and we just barely had our act together when the gun went off. We managed a decent start and by the second buoy had worked our way into the lead, but as the race went on we were gradually passed by faster boats. We crossed the line 6th out of 17, which felt pretty good considering we entered at the last minute, were the only boat with kids, and one of 2 that was crewed by just a couple.. It turned out this was the 40th Anniversary Regatta, which is a big deal on Staniel. The locals put on a big sit-down dinner, and because we raced, we were invited for free. The food was delicious but nothing compared to the charm and graciousness of the local people and the community. The entire day was one of our highlights of the trip so far, and we are so glad we changed our plans and decided to participate.

This morning we fulfilled our plans to make it to Black Point, and it turns out everyone else did as well. When we arrived at 0930 there were 20 boats here. The sun is now setting and we just counted over 50.  
Momo crossing the finish line

Santa brought the girls wetsuits.

Scouty showing off her muscles.

Marmar in glassy conditions on the bank.